Tag: Malaysia

News just in, I am the only tourist in town!

Day 11 – 07 Jan 2012 – Sibu / Kapit

I spent the evening last night in my hotel room as it was all so quiet in Sibu when I was wandering around between 5:30 and 7:00. I watched another movie, blogged and turned the lights off about 10.30. At midnight the local karaoke bar really kicked it up a notch and music was blasting till 1 am, and no I did not go down and join in 🙂

In Sibu I finally started taking health precautions, shower in jandals (thoughtfully provided by the hotel), water from bottles, slept in the sleeping bag liner and insect repellent on exposed skin when I went for my evening walk. I am really going to have to make these things habits and do them without thinking. I have also started a habit of storing my laptop and money belt in the hotel safe and bolting my door at night and have split my cash into different piles and storing them in various bags and pockets.

I had breakfast in the hotel, fried eggs on toast – mmmmm, and then re-packed and made my way back to the docks for the fast boat to Kapit.

The boat is just like a water-borne aircraft, a sealed torpedo. I took a business class seat which gave me a wee bit more room for an extra NZ dollar, over a three hour ride it was worth it. The ferry was full which meant I had to stay in my seat rather than bounce from side to side as the views changed. The ferry also had a list to port which was a real hassle as I was on the starboard side so taking photos was a bit harder to do, and I had to shoot through a rather grubby window as well. The drizzle had stopped by the time we left Sibu and it remained mostly dry throughout the voyage. As the bags were on the roof I had used the pack rain cover I got for my birthday, such useful gifts.

The voyage was uneventful though I did see a small crocodile sitting on a log !!! As the ferries move at a supposed 55km hr I didn’t get a chance to photograph it, damnit. Photos all taken out a window so pretty crap.

Chinese cemetery, Christians escaping persecution in Foochow were the first to colonise the interior in the early 1900s.

Riverboat shop

Long house. The are are a lot of long houses up the river, most have been upgraded into modern concrete buildings, most with satellite dishes on the outside. Some are huge !

Kapit

The unloading of the boat. I had to get my pack of the roof and carry it along the side of the boat, while negotiating people coming the other way. I had visions of me ending up on my back in the river !

I arrived in Kapit at lunch time so found myself a hotel, New Rejang Hotel (the roughest yet) and went in search of some snacks and to see if I could find any other tourists in town. I also got the name of a guide from the hotel reception. All I managed to find is some food….

I rang Lion (Leon) the guide and he is busy today, there were no other obvious tourists on the streets or in the cafes and Kapit is a small town. I think I have blundered badly by coming here on a weekend in the rainy season 😦 there is just nothing happening. The regional office is closed at weekend and apparently you need a permit to go up river – though also apparently no one checks. There were no guides at the jetty so I think I am going to be disappointed today.

I had a good walk around the town centre, visited the market and temple, the old White Rajah era Fort Sylvia was closed (supposed to be open) and had run out of things to do by 2.30. Hotel room, Tsing Tao beer, blogging and dozing was it for a few hours.

Fort Syliva (1880) – note the high tide marks, in 1932 it was 62ft above normal.

Cock fighting is a very popular form of entertainment in Borneo, I haven’t seen or heard it though, but these are fighting cocks for sale.

I headed out for some food and the hope of finding some entertainment at 6:00, however, the town is almost deserted now with most of the shops and a lot of the cafes closed or closing. I was walking past the water front and was hailed by a local man, I went over to say hello and it turned out he is Mr Joshua, the Lonely Planet recommended guide. I talked to him about a longhouse visit and how much money I had. He said unless the last boat brings someone in I am the only real tourist in town ! I am going to meet him for coffee tomorrow morning and he will see what he can do for me, but I cannot afford a trip on my own.

A wee snack – please note I am using the can and not the (very tempting) ice filled glass !

[Edit] – Obviously in honour of my visit to Sarawak, for the second day running I have seen a movie with a NZ actor, on the ferry this morning was Cliff Curtis’s latest movie Columbiana.

Kuching to Sibu

Day 10 – 06 Jan 2012 – Kuching / Sibu

Up early and finished packing my life into my backpack and messenger bag, it just fits, not much room for too much shopping though. The day was overcast and drizzly, but calm enough for a boat trip. Alex dropped me off at the jetty and I was solo and on my way !

The ferry seats about 100 people but there was only a dozen or so on board.  I was so pleased yesterday to read it was air conned, but man, it was absolutely freezing inside, the first thing I did was get my polyprop on. The boat made its way up the Sarawak River which is quite brown from the amount of soil that gets washed into it from the rain, there was a lot of tree and plant material and sadly a fair amount of rubbish floating by.

Out in the open waters of the South China Sea there was a reasonable swell which we ran across for a couple of hours so it was a rolling ride for a while.

Sibu is about 130km up the Rejang River, the river is the main highway into this part of the country and up into the highlands.   Logging was the primary activity up river for many years and this has now (apparently) been restricted somewhat for more sustainable activities. However, there were masses of logs stacked up along the river bank near the mouth of the river and at many stations as we travelled up river.  The rain really started to pour heavily as we neared Sibu and for a while visibility was almost non-existant, though it settled to a mere downpour as we arrived in town.

I chose the Li Hua hotel as recommended by the Lonely Planet, I had to take a twin single room, as that was all that was left. A bit more than I wanted to pay but still cheap, plus it was easy to find and close enough that I did not get soaked. I had to stay the night in town as the boats on to Kapit only go in the morning, the hotel seems Ok, TV and air con, all the key ingredients.

I spent some of the afternoon wandering around town, through the markets and by the port, there in this not a heck of a lot to see so I went back to the hotel for a snooze and watched “the marine 2” with Tem Morrison as the lead bad guy on TV. Yes it was crap.

The market had a stall selling live chickens, ducks and geese, individually wrapped in newspaper, i didn’t see this in Kuching.Wrapping the chicken, she was quite gentle, though practical !

I headed out again about 6.00 for a feed and to see if any of the local bars were open and packed with other tourists. None of the bars in the guide seemed to exist anymore or were closed and I have not seen one other westerner all day ! Hope there are some in Kapit as i do not have enough cash to hire a guide to go further upstream myself.  I bought a couple of beers and went back to my room.

Like Kuching has the big cat, Sibu has the big swan.

Just discovered free wi-fi so blogging time 🙂 and here it is.

Final day in Kuching, rain rain go away, no Bako

Day 9 – 05 Jan 2012 – Kuching

After a bit of research over the past few days I have pretty much finalised the next phase of my trip so last night I booked a return flight from Miri to Mulu and some accommodation for three nights in Mulu National Park. I am hoping that they are the only things I am going to need to book ahead, or it could be a night in a doorway somewhere!

The plan is to catch a boat from Kuching to Sibu tomorrow morning, I will overnight in Sibu and then catch a smaller boat up the Batang Rejang (Rejang river) to Kapit. In Kapit I hope to hook up with some other travellers and organise a guided trip further up river to a longhouse for an overnight stay the following day. I am not sure if I will do one or two nights up river will have to see what other people are wanting and what it all costs, apparently it is not overly cheap. The boats from Kuching and Sibu are quite modern, sealed and air conned, yus!  I will then boat back to Sibu for a further night and then take an eight hour bus ride to Miri.

I have to be in Miri for the 12th as I have a 9.30 am flight to Mulu on the 13th. I am planning on staying three nights in Mulu Nat. Park, visiting the famous caves and hopefully doing an overnight walk. From Mulu I fly back to Miri and aim to do a day trip the following day to the Niah Caves. From Miri I will bus to Brunei and in Brunei I will plan the next phase – in Sabah !

So, let the challenges begin, as tomorrow I head off into the unknown by myself !

I have enjoyed my time in Kuching, it has been great to spend a few days with Alex getting to know a little bit about Borneo and Malaysia, sampling different foods, all wrapped in the comforts of a car and a nice apartment to return to each day. Alex has been a great host and I have much appreciated his time and company.

Today was the day we were going to head to Bako National Park, but the weather really did turn to crap last night, I woke up around 5.30 to some heavy rain and some big lightening ! There was no way we were going to make it out to Bako, which is a real sham as I was keen on visiting, but I guess I can always come back again. With the weather so crap, I pretty much stayed in bed reading most of the morning. Reports later in the day from some of Alex’s friends suggested this was a good idea, sounds like there was a fair bit of flooding in Kuching, with many places closed.

I also reorganised my pack – cannot believe it all fits in !

The only activity of the day was a trip to the mall for lunch and I picked up a pair of jandals. I have found it very hard to find anything that fits my feet, and I am only a size 10,  I would hate to have my nephews feet ! The Spring mall is the newest in Kuching and inside I could have been in Sylvia Park, most of the regulars were there.

Found a small bit of NZ in the supermarket !

I guess there are going to be days like this when not much happens as I travel through wet areas.

I have update “the plan” page with more detail for the next week or two.

A tester stroll in the hills

Day 8 – 04 Jan 2012 – Kuching

The weather was a bit uncertain when we got up so we decided to not head out to Bako National Park. So I went for my first run since I have been away, I left at 7:50 and managed about 40 minutes and two and a half laps of the complex before melting completely away in the humidity. I ended my run at the pool, only to find it being cleaned and not accessible, grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I was absolutely dripping ! I staggered back to the apartment and had a long cold shower, but it still took a good hour in the air con to cool down.  It was nice to get out and run, though it was pretty slow !

The weather kind of perked up after that so we went and had a very early lunch (10.30) at Alex’s favourite Malay place, Rumah Hijau Cafe. We tried to eat there yesterday but it was packed at 11.00, it is a hugely popular place. I had an Indian Rojak, which was again delicious. I have been loving the food here.  One of the many advantages of staying with someone who knows the town is getting to eat excellent food at places that are outside the usual tourist haunts, its not that food is any cheaper, but I have seen a broader variety of foods and I have not had the same thing twice.

After lunch we took a drive out of town and went to Demai beach and to Mt Santubong, about 30 minute drive from town. There are a number of resorts at Demai at the foot of the mountain and we wandered through one to the beach. It was not a great day for the beach and the weather didn’t show it at its best, but it has lovely yellow sand, palm trees and a never ending view, except when you look to the base of the mountain.

We then headed back to the trail head and did the 45 minute walk to the viewing point at 400 metres up the 1200m Mt Santubong.  We were too late in the day to do the full loop to the summit.

This walk was long enough, I was hot about fifty metres up the trail, it was very humid. The track was steep, rooty, but not too muddy – nothing compared to the Home track run in the Waitakeres a couple of weeks ago!  Getting all that trail running in really helped prepare me for these sorts of walks as, apart from the heat, I found the climb was not too bad, harder than Piha trails and easier than Huia I guess. The key difference is when you are walking the Waitaks you are not checking that you are about to step on a snake with every foot fall:) The bush is totally different as well, no ferns, a lot more primary growth here too.

About half way up the trail I heard a massive commotion in the trees and looked up to see a small group of monkeys, chasing each other around, hooting and barking and jumping from tree to tree, by the time I got my camera out they were out of shot, but awesome awesome to experience !

The lookout proved a real dud and totally overgrownt. I would have loved to have let loose on the way back down but was really conscious of turning an ankle on the wet roots, so took it pretty conservatively, though I did slip at one point and gave the ankle a wee tweak.

The mountain from the road back to town. The walkable side is not so steep!

Malay girls in school uniform from the local Santubong school. There is a version of the uniform without the headdress.

I am also updating “the plan” with the next couple of weeks activities, will add dates tomorrow night when I have booked flights and accommodation.

Please send me emails !  I get some news via FB updates, but always love to hear more detailed news about what is happening with friends and family !