Future London past

Sunday 11 July 2021 – London.

Tapping Lido on the shoulder, I raised my fist in the air, signalling to those behind to stop and be silent. We drop to a crouch, eyes searching all around. What instinct made me do this? There is no sound, no unfamiliar noise, nothing to signal apparent and immediate danger. I am the clan tracker and the silence is what worries me; the complete absence of sound. We are in dense undergrowth, deep in a massive forest and not far from a large river, yet there is no bird call. Nothing. I count down 60 seconds in my head. I signal and we rise as one and carefully resume our journey along this narrow, deeply overgrown path, Lido is slashing our way through the tangle of vine and bramble as quietly as possible. Our hunt for food is too critical, we can’t return with nothing.

I hear a bird call, I raise my fist again and we stop, silent once more. The call is repeated, this time it is closely followed by a response. My experienced ears tell me these are not natural and confirm my previous instinct, we are being tracked. The time for slow careful progress is over, those behind me draw bows and, unsheathing my own machete, I move forward to join Lido and we both start to hack our way forward. There’s a ruin ahead, not far I think, if we can make it we will be better able to fight off any challenges with the stone at our backs. We may get to see the day out.

We are way out of our tribal zone of Walthamstow, I pray those following are from Camden where we have occasional and friendly trade, yet fear they are Pimlicans, bitter enemies. Since the great levelling in the 2030s when the Thames flooded and the city reverted to primal swamp and dense jungle, the tribal zones have been at war, fighting for food and drinkable water in this miserable poisonous swamp.

We hear more calling from behind and to one side; they must know we’re heading for the relative safety of the ruin and are trying to get ahead of us. We slash faster, those with bows have them raised with arrows loaded and strings tightened. The top of the collapsed dome of St Paul’s Cathedral appears through the forest, not far. A few more minutes and we will have a fighting chance….

This is future London. Welcome.

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We have been doing quite a bit of packing and tidying over the past couple of days, so after discovering my big camera was actually still working I thought I would take it for a walk around the finance part of the City, then visit one of my favourite hidden spots; the ruins of St Dunstans-in-the-East. Modern architecture of London’s scale doesn’t exist in Auckland, and neither do old and ruined churches.

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Today is the final of Euro 2020, postponed from last year due to the pandemic. The final of this European wide football tournament is here in London, at Wembley Stadium, tonight. England are playing Italy, but it’s a pandemic so surely there won’t be loads of pissed-up England fans in the City at 10:30am, 9 half hours before kick-off?

Wrong. They were already standing on the tables at the pub outside Liverpool St Station flailing their plastic pint glasses in the air. The cry of ‘INGER……LAND’ being spat out of frothy lipped red faces. Mask on, I hurried past.

I crossed the road, away from the station and the building crowd, and dived down one of the many side streets and into the financial district. It’s Sunday, it should be quieter here. Other than the short walk to St Dunstans, I had no plan and just let the flow of the buildings guide me, avoiding people where possible, stopping to take photos where appropriate.  I took a few.

The City has changed in the few short years since I was regularly walking past, a number of the towers that were being built have been completed. I guess it has been easier to block roads or to get permission to make noise over extended hours when they are less people around to raise a complaint.

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I liked these chairs and table, particularly that three were tucked in and one was left out; a lone smoker or bored security guard taking a rest?  There were plenty of them about on this Sunday morning.

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I did a fair bit of looking up on my walk, always intrigued by the compressed view as the towers lean in on each other, distorted by the wide-angle lens.

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I took a lot more photos looking up than I did looking along. Today, ground level was less interesting.

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I was trying to find some good examples of age contrast in the buildings and this was the best I could find that didn’t have people blocking the view. St Olave’s Church tower from 1450, through some post war low rise blocks to the least loved building in London, 20 Fenchurch St; ‘The Walkie Talkie’ completed in 2014, built 564 years after the church. I won’t see this in Auckland and I will miss it. I must try and make use of the architecture that is there though, less moaning, more pro-activiity.

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After wandering randomly through a collection of small streets and narrow alleys, I found my destination –  the ruins of St Dunstans-in-the-East. Its overgrown and moss stained walls the inspiration for that short piece of fiction above.

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I came here in January 2018 (it seems like yesterday) and very much wanted to get back before we leave for New Zealand in 18 days. I was hoping I would have it to myself. That was a rather desperate hope and wasn’t to be, though it was quiet enough for me to take photos without anyone sticking themselves in them.

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Its not a big site, but is fantastic and I love it,  a little oasis of peace, at least at the weekend. It’s a lot more overgrown that it was when I was here in winter; it had the feel I was after and I am reasonably pleased with the photos I managed to get in the short time I was there.

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Leaving St Dunstans, I walked down towards the Thames and upon arriving found a lot of people wandering about, heading towards the various bars for the game. It was a lot busier than I wanted it to be so I moved back up into the quieter streets of the city to take a few more images before heading back to the station. Some final (or almost final, who knows I may get out again!) images before we leave. There is something quite special about the City of London on a Sunday.

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The station was rammed, loads of drunk idiots singing and shouting, a train load arrived from Essex as I was walking through. I hurried off onto a quiet platform away from them, mask firmly on. I want to stay clear of potential Covid spreaders. 18 days of Covidiot avoidance to go. I took a home test a couple of days later just in case. Negative, thankfully.

Apart from the really drunk football ‘fans’, that was fun. I am so pleased my camera isn’t dead (this time). Much as it is heavy and the lenses are scratched and the sensor needs cleaning, I love its bulk and feel, the way it works and the quality of the images I can get.

The day before, Saturday, Eleanor and I went for a walk around Walthamstow, up to a strangely almost deserted Hollow Pond. On the way we discovered Phlegm painting a piece on a wall in St Peters-in-the-Forest churchyard as part of the E17 Art Trail. I was very happy with that, a final Phlegm before we go.

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I also took a photo of this small warehouse converted into a house, just because.

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I am going to write another short story soon, and hopefully the two weeks in isolation will give me the time and space to do it.  Lido and future London will definitely be in it.

 

Not forgotten (nor forgiven)

Thursday 08 July 2021 – London.

Time seems to be disappearing at pace at the moment, but it also seems to be dragging unbelievably slowly, the days seemingly taking longer than the weeks. I am struggling with motivation, especially at work. It is difficult, though in real world terms I am of course lucky to have so little to contend with.

This week saw the UK government announce that, even though it is projected there could be up to/at least 100,000 covid-19 infections a day later in the month, it is time to remove all restrictions and let life return to ‘normal’ on 19 July. This in turn caused the NZ government to announce they may ban all flights from the UK to protect the country. We are due to fly on 29 July so you can imagine how this has made me feel. Fingers crossed that neither of these things come to pass, but infections have now passed 30,000 a day and are growing. We are both double vaccinated so theoretically and statistically we should be fine, but I don’t want a positive test to scupper the trip we have been looking forward to for months, nor do we want to get ill.

Now we are back in London I was planning on going to the office two or three days a week. My workspace here is so much smaller than that in the flat and the office is big and air-conditioned and more comfortable than working from home. I have been in a few times and there are very few people on my floor, but with infections rising and mask wearing getting less prevalent on the Tube I am going to wind that back and only go in when needed. Today was one of those days. I had arranged to meet Steve for an after work photo-walk followed by some food and a couple of pints.

In preparation for this, last night I got my big camera out of the camera bag and after charging the battery discovered it was completely dead. No response at all when I turned it on, bugger, this is not what I want just when I am about to finish work, have no job lined up and am three weeks off from embarking on our 6 month minimum trip back to New Zealand. I tried a bunch of things but just could not get it to go, so charged the battery in the little camera and packed that instead. At least it is light.

I was meeting Steve at Embankment station and I took a few photos on the way. Making the most of the opportunity of working in a fairly old part of London; there is no history this historical in Auckland.

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Neither Steve or I were really feeling the photo-walk idea, we have both done this part of London too many times and work has been sucking the life out of both of us lately, interest was low.  We crossed the Thames and agreed to take a slow walk towards the pub he had booked a table at. It was a bit of aimless amble, the graffiti walls of Leake Street Tunnel was the first stop. I was pleased to see that there are now more bars and cafes opened up in the main tunnel offshoots. I always felt these were wasted opportunities.

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We walked round the side of Waterloo Station and found some classic English 60s tower block action.

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Back to the embankment. I had completely forgotten about the Covid Memorial wall, and it is long and frightening and wonderful and immensely sad. There are thousands and thousands of names and memories to those who have succumbed to this hideous virus. Walking past it, looking at the names and reading the messages very much puts into perspective my complaints about my desk at home being too small.

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If only the bastards in this place on the Thames bank directly opposite showed some real humility and came over here and read these all too human stories, then took stock of what their negligence has done, hung their heads in shame and resigned.

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There were not may photos on or by the wall which made this one so poignant. 18 years old, so sad.

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Crossing the river via Vauxhall Bridge took us past Tate Britain and through the grounds of UAL, a space I really like, it is always peaceful here when I pass through and the buildings are lovely, and just a little faded.

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We arrived exactly on time for our table booking at The Cask, a beer pub in Pimlico we have been to before; though memories of that evening are vague as they have some very strong beer. We didn’t make the same ‘mistake’ this time, eating a very good burger and chips as well as drinking substantially less. They have the best pub toilets I have ever seen and I am actually very jealous of those tiles.

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4 days later…. Using the mystic powers of the internet I have fixed my big camera. This has made me very happy.

The South Woodford Interchange

Sunday 04 July 2021 – Walthamstow.

South Woodford high street smells of KFC. It is a rather unique smell, and totally different to the fried stuff smell that emanates from other chicken shops. Not that there were other chicken shops on South Woodford high street. It may be the next suburb over but South Woodford is not Walthamstow where fried chicken shops seem to breed like rabbits, or maybe chickens. I think both sets of residents would be happy with that difference. They might be neighbours but they are worlds apart.

Perhaps the smell of deep fried dead things only existed for that brief moment I walked up the high street and South Woodford normally just smells of burnt diesel and petrol like every other Range Rover filled suburb on London’s Essex fringe. Who knows? I probably won’t be back there in the next three weeks to find out, nor do I know anyone to ask; we may be neighbours etc.

We moved back to London the Friday before last, to Eleanor’s house in Walthamstow, which is currently occupied by one of her sons and his girlfriend. Yesterday a tenant moved into my flat in St Leonards. While these are eminently practical things as we fly to New Zealand in four weeks and we have a lot of organising of stuff to do, one (or maybe two) more weeks by the sea on our own would have been nice. I am finding it stressful sharing a house and with so much to organise, but we have done a huge amount in the last week and things will ease. I hope.

This weekend I have spent time packing stuff away and throwing stuff out (though not books and records!) and was as organised as I was going to be by lunch time. As we were low on bread and milk I volunteered to go and buy some so I could get out of the house for a bit, stretch my legs, clear my mind and maybe take some photos.

Once out of the house and on the way to nowhere in particular I remembered that I wanted to take some photographs of the overpass where the A406 (the dreaded North Circular) joins the M11 and a road that goes somewhere, though I have no idea where. A minor league spaghetti junction that we pass whenever we drive to and from the flat. It was not too far from one of the many supermarkets I can walk to so it seemed like a worthwhile objective.

I took these two photos on the way.

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The overpasses were not quite where I thought they were, or I wasn’t where I thought I was and I found myself walking under a rail bridge in South Woodford where I found a closed car park. Only very small cars would fit in those spaces.

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Out the other side I walked back over the bridge and from the top I could see beyond the houses to the motorway and where I wanted to go, it wasn’t far off. I had just misjudged how deep the bend in the motorway was.

I found an underpass under the A406 and stopped to take a photo, planning on going through it on my way back; though naturally I went another way back and completely forgot about the underpass until I was almost at the supermarket. Lesson learnt; always do something at the time, never plan to do it on the way back or later. Admittedly, this is a lesson I should have learned a long time ago and still fail miserably to on every occasion.

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Back on track I soon found what I was looking for; this wonder of concrete, steel and tar seal. It is not the biggest or most complex intersection, but it is the one I have, and I need to make use of what is local to me, especially now I no longer have a car to hand. I kinda wish I had the big camera with a couple of lenses rather than the little camera with the 20MM lens. [4 days later I discovered that the big camera is now dead, and now I need to make camera related decision again, something I wasn’t expecting, or wanting to do].

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I like how some attempt had been made to green the place, though only half the trees seem to have survived.

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Access to the other side was blocked by a fenced off construction storage area so I couldn’t easily get to the other end, though I had seen enough and was satisfied. One more mission to be taken off this list.

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I really need to do more urban landscape photography as I quite enjoyed myself.

On the way to the supermarket I stopped on a bridge over the A406 and remembered that I had meant to walk under it.

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The Barrow – a short story

This is the first short story I have written, and the first piece of fiction I have shared publicly.  A few weeks ago I shared that I had sent a piece of flash fiction off to a competition,  though it closed at the end of May they are not announcing anything until September so that story will stay hidden away for a bit longer.

I started writing this months ago, then got stuck and left it for quite some time, finally finishing the first full draft in October, with an edit over the Christmas break and a second in February.  I haven’t touched it since, though last week decided that I would do a quick once over edit and then post on June 21, the summer solstice, when the story is set.  I don’t think I will ever be satisfied with it, so am going to be brave and just share it. There are about 6,500 words (some swearing), so maybe get a drink first.   Enjoy…

The Barrow

Awake. Woken by what? I’ve no idea; whatever disturbed me is no longer making its presence felt. There’s no hint of a missed sound, no lingering smell. It’s dark, the darkest I’ve experienced; not a glimmer or suggestion of light, it’s completely and utterly absent. A short sharp shiver passes through me, though the air isn’t particularly cold and it’s dry, as is the stone floor I’m curled up on. I’m wearing all my clothes and can feel my trainers under my head, a not uncomfortable pillow. Holding my breath, not daring to move, I freeze for a few seconds, waiting for whatever woke me to make a sound, but nothing stirs. Is the whatever that woke me doing the same? Waiting silently.

I raise my head, breathe out, then in and hold again. Nothing. I sit up and stretch, bones aching from sleeping on the stone. I have no idea of the time, I no longer wear a watch and, checking my phone, I find the battery is dead. Long dead or short dead? I don’t know, time has become blurred; elongated or shortened? Here, underground, where the journeys of the sun and the moon are unseen, where movement is measured in millennia, human time means nothing.

I reach for my head torch, fumbling briefly in the dark, finding it where it should be, next to my shoes, where my head recently lay. I turn it on, filtering yellowy light through my fingers, not wanting to disturb the others if they’re still sleeping. I gradually move my hand, releasing more and more light into the space until the full beam penetrates the blackness. I cast the light around, across the floor, round the base of the walls, everywhere; this cave isn’t big. I discover I’m alone.

I can’t, and don’t know how to, react; the beer, vodka and weed has left me befuddled and slow. With a smoke-and-drink-dry voice I half call out, a croak. No response, I call again, clearer, louder, then again more urgently, the pitch rising with a touch of alarm. Still no response. Too tired to worry or to think, my barely functioning brain tells me my friends have slipped off to another chamber to shag. I turn off the torch, place it back next to my shoes, lie down and drift back to sleep. To dreams.

I dream of gods, of those once human who became gods when they left the earth in that time before time. I dream of glory. Glory in battle with honourable beasts that fed my family, my tribe, my people. Glory in defeating those who arrived uninvited in our lands. Glory in death pure and clean, glory in life after death, glory in the everlasting party of heroes.

I dream of death, and pain, and blood and sacrifice. A life cut short, cut down from behind, betrayal.

I dream of vengeance.

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Posh Dave, Rebekah and I met at college. Three students who didn’t arrive with prepared friends, we were the immediate misfits. We didn’t hit it off at the start, but just like in the movies, we ended up hanging together and, just like in the movies, it was simpler and safer that way. An unexpected but comfortable solidarity between our year’s misfits and weirdoes.

Posh Dave was sort of a local, though not as much of a townie as Bex. He lives in a big house just out of town. The lords of the manor type thing, apparently his family have been living there forever. He’d been to an expensive junior school somewhere else before his parents ran out of cash. Or, if you believe the rumour, his dad got busted for some dodgy financing and got sent away. Either way, he was now at the local comprehensive just like us. He’s not at all like Bex and I, but he makes us laugh and is as much one of us as he isn’t one of the others.

Bex is an odd one; she grew up here, totally hates the place and the people in it. She once told us she could never leave, was bound to the town; doomed to live, grow old and die here. Her mum passed away a couple of winters ago. Too many years of smoking, depression and poverty led to a short and painful, for Bex at least, illness and she just lost the will live. Bex says the town killed her. Being angry is what kept her going, and being here is what keeps her angry. She looks like Joey Ramone; tall and hungry lean, leather jacket, Ts, jeans and sneakers. Not the youth uniform of semi-rural Somerset in 2019.

Me, I’m Pete and my story is simple, and all too common these days. My folks no longer liked anything about where we lived in East London. It was always a bit shabby for their middle class pretensions. Then more foreigners started moving in, the Polish builders, Romanian cleaners and Lithuanian kitchen hands, the people that keep the country running but we don’t want to see. We moved down to this rural shit-dump of a town for the start of college. A fresh start. A new life with better housing, different jobs, away from bad influences, and of course, ‘proper’ English people.

I hated them for moving us; away from my friends, my crew, my scene, the punks and goths. I even miss the long-haired metal kids. I miss the dodgy convenience stores that sell cheap booze and fags to the local kids, that DIY that never asks for ID to buy spray paint, the illicit gigs and the house parties, skulking around after hours in the city, looking for places to explore; tunnels to enter or unsecured cranes to climb. Punk rock, urbex and graff, it’s what we lived for, what I loved, taken away from me when we moved.

Over the past two years we’ve become pretty tight; thrown together by not fitting in, the school forcing us to be friends as we had no others. We were never the Three Amigos, or the Three Musketeers or the Three Anything At All. To the rest of school we were just seen as losers, they called us ‘twats’, or if they were feeling verbose ‘The Twats’. We cared less, their opinion counted for nothing, rednecks, morons and straights; boring, run-of-the mill small town normals. All of them.

Rob was another local, like Bex he was born and bred in the town, but unlike Bex he was the complete townie, puffer jackets, tight jeans, Nike trainers, gold chains and high street hip-hop. Nothing like us, he was the anti-misfit, good looking and sporty; the girls loved him and the football lads admired him; some of them probably loved him too, though it isn’t that sort of town. He was a year older than us, dropped out of school as soon as he could, taking an apprenticeship with a local garage, a bit of a car guy, but not a total motor-head. He didn’t hang out with us and was never part of our wider group, but he was OK, he never gave us any grief, and we could share a drink or a smoke and a laugh with him. He was better than the others. It was a surprise when he came to the solstice rave with us last summer and even more of a surprise when he never appeared back in town again.

School has finished (thank fuck). It’s summer and the longest day of the year, the solstice. It’s boring and hot and there are no jobs for students and there is nothing to do until university starts and I can get away from here. I did OK in my exams, enough I think, so hopefully I’m off to university in Newcastle. As far away from small town and even smaller minded rural Somerset as I can get.

Our music; 90s punk rock, Joy Division, Cave and Cohen, Sisters of Mercy and Fields of the Nephilim. Music from the past, discovered in experiments with parental record collections as we searched for something more fulfilling than what’s offered to us; the ever repeated blandness of youthful bearded singer song writers and imported pap from America, that meaningless shit that pervades and perverts the taste of our generation. We want something that speaks to our disconnected, placeless souls, something with meaning, words that reflect our experiences, our isolation, the way we feel. Music formed into playlists to get stoned to in the car, on beaches and in forests, in fields under the sky, away from the norms and rules of daily life. Maybe they are just false memories from a time we never knew, a past that belonged to others, but at least our music was chosen by us, not curated and delivered, packaged by an algorithm at some faceless corporation. As false as everything and anything.

We may as well party and enjoy ourselves while we have the chance, the three of us, together, maybe for the last time. We set off early into the summer evening, clear skied, with the sun a long way from setting. Posh Dave driving, Bex next to him in the front providing direction, I’m drinking cheap lager alone in the back. They’re together, and have been for a year, ever since Rob went to London and disappeared. They may seem like an odd couple from the outside; he so shiny and mannered, she the crusty punk, but they make sense to me. I know where they’re from. I’m jealous of Posh though, being a bit street I saw myself as having the better chance. Fair play to him though, I love them both.

None of us are hanging around after summer, Posh and Bex (yeah I know) are off to Europe, working where they can for food and lodging and staying as far away from this shitty island for as long as possible. Brexit Britain, who the fuck wants to be here?

This was to be the first of our last outings together. Today is the anniversary of Rob going away; we want to celebrate his escape to the city and life away from here. We’re visiting hidden places; standing stones and ancient burial grounds, the holy places of prior generations, those of the unknown but not yet forgotten sects; on hill tops, in woodland and deep underground. The secret places, known only to locals, passed down through generations, the weird places that few outside the South West know. Fuck those big tourist sites. Disneylands all of them.

It’s our last chance to roam and be free together before we split and do our own thing. Who knows if we will ever get to do this again.

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I wake again, screaming into the pitch-black nothingness, the lone sound of my voice reverberates off the walls and roof of the chamber, a feedback loop of my own, pitched too high, too loud. I stop screaming and the echo stops with me, leaving an empty silence. No questions, no responses, no care. Just that empty silence. No one is there. Flicking on my head torch I cast the beam around the chamber, as before the light reports back what I already fear. I’m alone. Underground, with no idea how deep below the surface or far into the system I am, how I got here, nor how to get back out again. I want to know where my friends are, what’s happened to them. Did they abandon me as a joke? Are they lost? Have they fallen down a hole or been trapped by rock fall? Have they been taken? Where the hell are they!

The fuzziness in my head from before has been replaced by the dull deep ache of a mixed drink hangover. I don’t need that shit right now.

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There is this place Bex knows, a rare place, a secret place, known only to a few who have lived here for generations. She promises us that it will be the bomb; the best thing that will happen to us this summer, if not ever. She promises a big reveal, but leaves no hint. Nada, nowt. Nothing.

“Wait,” is all she will say.

It took two hours to get here, though I suspect we’re not that far from where we started, I’m sure we passed some places more than once. I didn’t care, left alone in the back of the car with beer and a soundtrack of hopelessness and betrayal, romantic despair and unrequited love, I was in my happy place. Wasted and drifting, disconnected from the hopelessness of life in small town England and a future that would, probably, never be realised. A brief moment of release, the last outings with friends before escape to the faint hope of something new, something better.

We park in a rubbish strewn lay-by, there are no other cars. As soon as we stop I am out of the car, most of a six pack of cheap lager gone, and dying for a piss. I jump the fence, crash through the hedge and with great relief release myself on the far side, into a field, half watched by three disinterested cows. I hear Bex and Posh laughing and calling me on the other side of the hedge. I tell them where to go.

Loading back-packs with beer and vodka, kindling to start a fire and food to cook on it, we grab the boom box, cross the road, clamber up a low bank and enter into the narrow roadside woods.

There’s a path of sorts through the trees. Bex tells us she knows the way and we follow a faint bramble and weed strewn trail, brushing through the waist-high cow parsley and denim hooking holly. Humans have been this way in the not too distant past, empty beer cans and plastic bottles, toilet paper and torn blue bags litter the side of the path. Nodding at the rubbish Bex says “Fucking townies, ravers. Country people don’t do this,” disgust in her voice at the mess left behind. The stand of trees isn’t deep and we’re soon walking in the lowering sun up a scrubby, rock laden field. Pointing to a low peak a few hundred yards in the distance, Bex tells us that’s where we’re heading. Not too distant but far enough from the road that no-one will see or hear us, and we won’t see or hear anyone else. Bex doubts anyone is there. Though it isn’t that far from the road, it isn’t a well known place. It isn’t on any maps and Google has never found it from above.

Dumping our bags near an old fire pit sheltered from the wind in a clump of rocks near the peak, we load the boom box with a c90 cassette recording of a couple of old Leatherface LPs, grab beers and let Bex lead us to the surprise she promised us when she proposed this trip. We follow her down a narrow and dust-dry sheep track into a small wooded glade growing in, around and over a narrow gully in the boulder and rock littered hillside. Deep in, and totally cut off from the sun, she pushes through seemingly dense bushes and with a delighted “ta-da” reveals a rusted door, imbedded into ancient and graffitied concrete, constructed against the face of the equally graffitied gully. The door is solid; thick steel, with ancient rust showing through faded, curled and peeling military grey paint. Barred top to bottom by an inch thick circular rod, hasped and locked with the meanest looking padlock I have ever seen.

“What the fuck!” is the first thing that comes out of my mouth. “What is this place? Is it the army’s?”

I search for cameras, hidden security, gun barrels poking out of bushes; nothing catches my, admittedly pretty addled, eyes.

“Nah, it’s cool,” says Bex. “This place is way too old and way too weird for the army.”

Sweeping her hands round the signs, tags and random shit adorning the walls around the door to emphasise her point.

No longer distracted by the randomness and weirdness of a metal door concreted into a gully face deep in a hillside in remote Somerset. I see signs and sigils, words, letters and drawings; old and older; painted, written and carved, all around the door. Remarkably, the door itself is adorned with one sign; official, in colours of the local council. ‘NO ENTRY, Unsafe Passage’.

“So what is it?” I ask again.

Bex tells us that it’s an old cave system, no one really knows when it was discovered, but it was like hundreds of years back, a burial ground from the Stone Age or something. They found loads of old skeletons and shit here, but it was grave robbed way back and it’s long empty. Hippies used to come here after the Stonehenge Festival, but some got lost in the caves so the council sealed it in the 70s and pretty much no one has been inside since. “Pretty much,” she repeats, almost to herself.

My eyes flick around the mass of writing and carving surrounding the door. Messages are layered on top of old messages, on top of even older messages. Warnings and welcomes, charms and threats, yings and yangs. Visual noise, confused and confusing, I have no idea where to start reading. From below the recent, older things start to appear; carved letters blurred and dulled, old inks seeping into the sandstone, and below those again, edge worn and faded I see pictograms; Celtic runes, crosses and pentagrams, interlinked circles, crude fish symbols and so many things unrecognisable.

“How do you know about this place?” Posh asks.

“It’s a perfect campfire story,” Bex replies. “Let’s head back, get the fire going, chill and I’ll explain.”

I take my phone out and start to take photos, a sweeping video of the scene, close-ups of text not in a script I recognise, things to refer to when I’m home with internet access and a clear head.

While I’m checking out the writings, Dave is fiddling with the padlock on the door.

“Holy shit!” he exclaims, turning around with the padlock in his hand. “It wasn’t even locked, just looked like it.”

He pulls back the clasp with a rust dry creek and slides the metal rod out of the loops in the door frame. “Shall I?” he asks. Hell yes.

He pulls on the door, nothing happens. He pulls again, this time much harder, with exactly the same result. It’s stuck fast. “Fuck.”

Dave heads back up the path, returning with a branch. Shoving it under the metal rod, he throws his weight against the other end in an attempt to lever the door open. Nothing happens to start with; then, with a loud crack the door pops an inch. Tossing away the branch, Dave and I grab the edge of the door, heaving on it together. It slowly, noisily draws open. A fug of stale dampness and old air bursts out its mouth. Like a living thing brought back from a long hibernation, expelling old breath and ready to draw in new air.

We cross the threshold, into that liminal space between light and dark, sound and silence. Separating ourselves from the outside as we pass through the doorway; moving from the uncertain world of the present and an unknown future and into the certainty of the past.

With torches back in our bags, we don’t venture far. The entrance is small, concrete-lined, with empty hooks and shelves on the walls. It looks like the porch of an old house. I can almost see scarves and miners helmets, worn old coats hanging from the hooks, maybe a smoke stained lamp or a hand drawn cave map, with muddy boots lined up on the floor against the wall. However, the space is empty, with just a laddered angled shaft in the floor; going down into the cold darkness of the hill.

We decide to go back to where we dumped the bags, get a fire going and let Posh and Bex have a drink while I take my turn to do some work and cook. Relax into the early evening; eat, chill and then go back to the cave with torches as the sun goes down.

With the fire settled to ember, bellies full, the vodka bottle and a spliff passing from hand to hand, Bex starts on the story of this place.

She tells us that this is an ancient burial ground, discovered by people from before recorded time, people free from the constraints of society, free of a religion with a single god and free from structure and conformity. A people who roamed where food and the seasons led them, returning to their hidden and sacred places when death required it. This is a burial site for their elders and mystics; created from underground systems older than them, from when the ice melted and left the surface, carving channels, tunnels and chambers, entire systems deep underground. Those buried here became one with their gods.

Bex says the location was passed to her by her mother just before she died, that the same happened to her mother, and hers before that; handed down to the eldest daughter, generation after generation, from back before time was being recorded. Bex’s mother explained to her that their family had always been connected to the local king, the eldest daughter serving the monarch’s eldest son, not as a servant but as a priestess. The head priestess.

Bex tells us she’s never been down into the burial chambers. That the council sealed it up years ago after some people disappeared in the system, way before her time.

“Shall we go back, go in?” she asks. Posh and I instantly agree. Adventure is what we came here for.

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Shining the torch around I discover only one way out. I pull on my shoes and stagger gingerly to my feet. I stumble walk towards the hole leading out of the chamber, the fringes of the torch light catching ochre lines over the exit. I point the beam directly at them and see more of the symbols we found on the surface, but these are cruder; the lines fading, drawn by fingers, not carved, sprayed or brushed. No letters here, just arrows and circles, hand prints, more. I gasp when the outline of a beast comes into view as the torch circles the wall. The raw outline of a mammoth-like figure, tusks and trunk and ears, clearly formed though crude and faded by time. My eyes pop and I’m suddenly awake, a burst of much needed adrenaline pumping into my weary brain.

I scan the rest of the wall but find nothing else. Staring at the mammoth, I wonder how long it’s been here; months, years, decades? Maybe centuries. Recalling history lesson mentions of cave paintings discovered in France that are over 35,000 years old. Can it be that old? Am I the first person to see this since it was made?

I call again for Bex and Dave. I’m desperate to show them this wonderful, amazing thing. As before, I’m greeted with nothing but silence. I need to find them.

I take one last glance before exiting the chamber, wishing I had some water, anything to drink. My mouth is parched from the excess of the night before, burning from the calling out and the waking screams. I find myself in a narrow passage, tall enough for me to stand and wide enough I can almost fully stretch my arms. The walls are smooth, verging on soft, dry and dusty. No man or machine has made this, the water flow of millennia has carved these passages and chambers. I call their names again. No response. My enthusiasm to show them the painting is rapidly being replaced with a fear-tinged anger. I can’t believe they would leave me here alone in that state, not that they were in much better shape than me. I hope they’re OK.

This isn’t my first time underground; we’ve been in caves before, exploring the area with Rob last summer. Caving and climbing is what he did to escape the dullness of his existence. Occasionally we went with him and he would show us basic moves, drilling us on safety and preparedness, letting us watch as he showed off climbing up impossible looking bluffs, other times taking us down into some of the less treacherous open cave systems. Teaching us about being underground; about airflow and water, how to spot signs of danger, ensuring we didn’t over extend ourselves.

I have to choose which way to go, though no clues are given. The air is completely still and the dust on the ground has been churned by feet in both directions. For no reason than my head says so, I turn to the right. Using a Sharpie left in my jacket pocket from a last day of school wall-writing mission, I write my name and draw an arrow on the wall as I leave. I haven’t gone far before my head torch hits the roof and soon I’m on hands and knees crawling in the dust. Shining the yellowy beam ahead, I can’t see anything that helps, just the further lowering of the roof and drag marks in the dust indicating that others have passed this way in the past, but how long ago? Minutes, hours, decades? Impossible to tell.

Now on my stomach, I point the light forward and can see through the choke point into another chamber. I turn my torch off to see if there’s any hint of light ahead, I call into the space and all that returns is my own echo. I lie there in the dirt, in complete and utter darkness, not sure if I should go forward or turn back, whether I should scream or cry. I try to recall how I got to be in the chamber in the first place, but nothing comes to me. Did I come into the system on my own or was I with the others? Why did I/we come this far? I have no idea what to do next. I choose to cry. In the dark, alone, lost. There doesn’t seem to be another immediate option.

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Then, through my blubbing, I hear laughter. Dave and Bex, and someone else? Can it be Rob? Is that his laughter I can hear in the background? Is this the big reveal Bex promised? Is Rob back from London?

I hear Bex calling me on, telling me it’s a short belly wriggle and I’m through. Wiping my eyes I raise my head from its slump. I look forward and can now see a pale yellow flickering light. Yes! My spirits immediately lift, and with a feeling of relief, stronger than anything I’ve felt before I turn my head torch back on and using elbows and knees, I slither crawl through the choke point and into the new chamber. To my friends; to relief. Jesus, I had never been so scared.

Clambering out of the dust, running my fingers through my hair and brushing myself down, I see the shadowed shapes of my friends standing in a vast chamber. Swinging my head-torch around, the cavern is so huge I can’t see the ceiling nor its furthest walls. I stumble rush forward into the welcoming arms of Bex and Dave for a group hug. I step away and look at them one by one, laughing with the joy of seeing them again. I tell them I heard Rob’s voice calling me on with theirs, is he here? There’s the slightest of pauses before Bex says he is, sort of. And that’s when things start turning to shit.

Dave speaks. “Have a look around mate.”

Since entering this enormous space my eyes have just been on my friends. Then I realise that my torch isn’t the only source of light. Bex and Posh are surrounded by multiple, flickering, lanterns. “Where did they get them?” is the first thing that pops into my mind.

I’m about to ask when I spot more of the animal paintings on the wall beside us. Unlike the ones I saw when I woke up, these show human figures; loads of them, all men, linking hands around the walls.

As my eyes grow accustomed to the light I see that every figure looks like it’s been painted by hand, shaded from red to brown as if time had faded them all individually. As I walk towards them, I realise the paintings get more proficient and the colours less faded as they snake around the wall. I look back toward the opening I came through; above this is possibly the oldest figure, it’s certainly the most faded and largest of them. He is magnificent, ancient and regal. Instinctively I know this must be one of the god-kings Bex told us about earlier. I take my phone from my pocket to take some photos and then remember the battery’s flat. This place is so utterly amazing it needs to be captured.

My torch bobs as I swing my head around, marvelling at the paintings covering the walls almost from the floor to out of human reach. I continue walking around the chamber, kicking up ancient dust and sand as I go, leaving footprints where none existed. The floor is strewn with boulders and there are exit points heading in numerous directions, small and large. Some show signs of being man-made, jagged and ridged from picks and bars, but most are just the smooth grey stone water has made over the years.

I shine the light up the wall; the ochre red of the paintings intermingling with darkness where a bit of the craggy roof is low. As I crane my head back, the light picks out calcites hanging from the roof, glowing white against the dull grey rock. This place is beautiful and stark, wonderful.

Turning back to speak to my friends, my light catches a flashing glimpse of blue on the floor. My head automatically flicks back to the incongruous colour, the light and my eyes settling on a dusty puffer jacket on top of a pile of clothing against the wall. My light illuminates the jacket as I walk towards it. I recognise immediately it as Rob’s. I stop, and turn round.

“Pete,” Bex says. “There is no good news in this story. I’m sorry.”

“Where the fuck is Rob?” I demand.

Bex swings her torch around the row of painted men, alighting on the figure at the end. My head torch follows and immediately I can tell who this crudely painted figure on the wall is. Rob. His eyes, barely lines and dots, seem to be imploring me to acknowledge him, to come to him, to touch him. He is holding the hand of a figure I don’t recognise, though it looks a lot older.

“I had no choice Pete,” Bex tells me. “I had to then, and I have to now.”

“My ancestors,” Dave says, now standing next to me, “were the first to be buried here, generations and generations ago.” He casts his arms around in the dark, “A lot of these are my family, the oldest ones, anyway.

“Some are sacrifices, prices to be paid when times are tough and blood lines are thin.

“Times have been tough.” he adds, leaving the words hanging in the air.

“My family is cursed,” he continues, pointing at Bex. “both our families are cursed.“

He walks back towards the centre of the cave, into the circle of lanterns.

“My people took this land when it was a new land, soon after it was released from the sea, thousands of years ago. We took it from the first people to come here, and we didn’t take it easily. Many died.

“Their holy man placed a curse on our king, commanding that until hands are joined in a circle on the wall of the largest chamber, none of the souls laid here will rest. Our first people honoured the curse, as did the next few dozen generations.” He points his torch on the largest figure.

”Eventually, as fortunes grew, it became a bit of a family joke; the boogie-man to scare the kids, and the curse faded to legend almost as fast as family power and influence was grabbed. By the time that power and influence collapsed, it had been forgotten. Granddad read about the curse after the war when all we had left was the house. He brought the sacrifices back and started making millions again.

“Dad then totally fucked it all up with his stupid games. Though he isn’t gone, he’s too chicken-shit to go through with anything.

“It may be OK for him, but I cannot live like this Pete.”

Bex joins in. “My family have always served the king, the eldest daughter serving the eldest son. Once mum died  I’m now the elder in my family. I serve Dave’s father, but he is weak.

“Dave is the real king, and he commands the sacrifice, one that can only be made on the night of the summer solstice. Tonight.”

I’m smiling, thinking they’re taking the piss. I turn to face them, my mouth working to make a smart comment, but I see no hint of humour on their faces. It takes a moment for it to click that this is reality, that they actually mean me some harm.

“Fuck YOU! This is fucking insane.”

“Sorry Pete, it is what it is,” says Dave as he steps towards me from inside the circle of lanterns, picking a metal bar from the ground. I burst forward, kicking one of the lanterns at him. It hits his leg, flaming oil flies out from broken glass, his jeans catch alight. His leg aflame, screaming, he dives to the ground; rolling and writhing, he thrashes around in the dust trying to put out the flames.

Bex howls, angry, animalistic, she moves towards Dave to help, then anger takes over and she turns and comes at me. Her face, yellowed and flattened by the lantern light is filled with hate. I run.

I enter a tunnel and find I can stand up, my head torch bouncing as I move, throwing shadows all over the place, making it hard to see, to focus on where I’m going. I’m forced to slow, I don’t want to fall. The tunnel is sloping down, not the way I want to go, I want to be heading up to the surface away from this insanity and my fucking fucked up friends. I want air and light and sanity.

I realise that the tunnel has no man-made marks; this tunnel was made by water. Though I can’t hear pursuit, it’s too late to return to the chamber and find another exit, I have to go on and hope. The passage narrows and steepens downwards; thankfully the surface is free of rubble and I can move freely. For the first dozen yards I’m almost upright, but I’m soon crouching, slowing, bending forward further and further as I head down the tunnel. I can feel the air starting to cool, the walls are getting damp and the air is musty with age and something else. Water.

This doesn’t feel like a way out. Panic is starting to build and I can hear my heart beating, it sounds so loud, can they hear me? Can they hear my fear?

As I slow I can hear someone behind me. Bex. She isn’t rushing. If she really is the priestess, she probably knows this system well. She will know where I’m going. Her lack of urgency worries me even more.

“Give it up Pete, this is just making it worse.” She sounds so close, her voice echoing back to me from further down the cave.

“Fuck you,” I repeat.

The fear is growing as the tunnel gets lower and narrower, eventually forcing me to my knees. I drop into a shallow stream of what feels like liquid ice. I try to raise my knees out, but too late, my jeans are soaked, my hands are cold, the grit on the floor is tearing into the skin of my knees, though I have no choice but to carry on. I don’t get far, forced to stop as the passage shrinks to a crawlspace so tight I don’t think I can go on. Bitterly cold water drips slowly, unevenly from the roof onto the back of my neck, it runs down my shirt.

My head torch tells me it’s narrow, shallow and sloping more steeply now. The water flows down, so there has to be somewhere for it to go; there has to be a way out, though I can’t see it.

I call out, begging for help, my voice muffled by the narrowness, my body filling too much of the space to allow sound to travel normally. I have to go on. Dropping to my belly in the freezing water, with my arms in front of me I scrabble into the tiny space. Elbowing my way forward, pushing with my toes and knees. The light showing me nothing but wet rock and my own hazy damp breath, now coming faster and hotter as the fear cranks up another notch.

Finally I am stuck. I can’t go forward or back. I call, I hear muffled laughter. Bex. Her hands on my feet and legs, she’s going to pull me back out, give me a chance to get out of this hole and a chance to fight back. Maybe it was all just a prank that has gone horribly wrong?

I try to use my hands to help her, feeling for what small leverage I can on the wet rock, but rather than pulling, I realise she’s pushing me further forward.

“STOP!” I call out, “you’re making it worse!”

She keeps pushing me down and further in. Jesus, fuck, I can’t push back, my hands can’t grip anything in the ever tightening hole, my face is now in the shallow water, I turn my head to the side to breathe, but there’s so little air. My body blocking one end and I now know there’s no real exit, a gap for water to flow out but not air in. I am trapped.

As I breathe out and my lungs depress I slide further in as I’m shoved from behind. I can barely draw breath, let alone scream. I try to pull more air into my lungs, force them to expand and slow the relentless pressure from behind. I can’t.

I hold on as long as possible. Finally I must exhale, my lungs compressing and allowing a small gap between my chest and the wall. I’m forced forward another few millimetres. It’s so tight now I can’t re-expand my lungs, I can’t draw breathe, my heart is pounding harder and harder, I can hear the blood flowing in my head, it feels like it’s expanding into rock itself. Tightening, tightening, tightening.

It ends.

|——————————-|

I look out from my place at the end of the line on the wall. I can feel my right hand is held, but there is no comfort from the old friend beside me. I want to scream but no air comes from my stone lungs, nor sound from my stone lips. The lanterns in the cavern burn down and then out. It’s dark, but I know I am not alone.

I dream of death, and pain, and blood and sacrifice.

I dream of revenge.

The End.


A short walk by the Lea.

Friday 11 June 2021 – London.

As I walked the tar-sealed path between the River Lea and the football fields of Hackney Marshes, shaded by oak and ash and poplar and willow, the most English of trees, my mind wandered off to the time I clambered down a rock and boulder strewn path in the Borneo jungle. On my own. The benefit of hindsight suggests it was not the smartest thing I have done, there was real potential for something to go terribly wrong. Obviously my walk this morning from Walthamstow to Stratford was not remotely the same, though it was the first time I have walked this particular path and it was the closest I have been to a walk in the forest for a long time. I am missing even the mildest of adventure.

I came up to London on the train after work yesterday and can’t believe how much hotter than St Leonards London is, it must be two or three degrees warmer, and with no cooling breeze. It was not a pleasant night and I had little sleep.

My second Covid-19 vaccination was this morning, and it was a process that went very smoothly. As I am sure I said after the last one, but well done to the NHS for making this easy and stress free. In three weeks I will be safer than I am now. Not that I feel particularly unsafe, we take care when we go out and will continue to do so, vaccination or not. England is a long way from being Covid free and we don’t want to even think about what would happen if we got sick before we leave for New Zealand.

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There was four hours until the train back home. As I needed to return some trousers I bought from the mall last time I was here I decided to walk to Stratford and get some exercise in. From the pharmacy where I was vaccinated the walk is almost entirely though parkland which made the decision an easy one.

There is a fantastic Roa mural just by the pharmacy on St James Street.

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I pass Walthamstow Wetlands on the way to the marshes (and the overbuilding of flats on Blackhorse Rd on the far side of the wetlands).

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We have walked the Wetlands and the marshes on numerous occasions over the past few years, and I’ve never seen the marshes so overgrown. I think the council is letting the grasses and wild flowers run rampant which I am mostly in favour of; there were a lot of bees and other insects buzzing about today.

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There has been some changes where the path passes under the railway line and a lot of scrub has been cleared, perhaps some of the scrubby trees were interfering with the trains? I am guessing the bike ran out of electricity and has been dumped here, it adds to the edgeland feel of marshes; even though they are not on the edge of anything at all.

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The River Lea splits into two near Lea Bridge Rd, into the natural River Lea and the man-made, Lea Navigation. We normally walk the Navigation, so today I chose to walk the river instead, it was slightly longer and I am guessing less busy than the main tow path. Soon after passing under Lea Bridge Road I came across a Phlegm painting I haven’t seen before, something which very much vindicated the path chosen.

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Crossing a short bridge the path follows the river for a couple of miles, thankfully mostly in the shade as it was warm and sunny and I had not thought to put sun screen on.

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It was a nice walk, quiet, but not deserted. I imagine tomorrow it will be busy, the Lea has become a destination for younger folk to party and dip in the cooling water on a hot day, like tomorrow will be. Polluted or not.

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IMG_0722I like the Lea, it is shallow, but wide, not fast flowing; it looks nice, like a proper small river. The tree lined banks place it anywhere in England, so it was easy to take myself out of the city. Looking at the pictures I took as sit here writing I can almost see myself in a jungle somewhere wild; but maybe not those trees can only be English!

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Past the marshes the path crosses under the A21 before entering (or not in my immediate vicinity) the Olympic Park area; a great legacy of the 2012 games.

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Eventually I found a way into the park near the velodrome, which just happens to be my favourite building in the park.

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The walk through the park to the big shopping mall is really pretty, lots of long grass and wild flowers everywhere, lovely. I really like how wildflowers have become a thing again in the past few years and local authorities are letting them flourish rather than mowing them lawn flat.

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I had intended to look for a shirt and some walking shoes while I was at the shops, but I was too hot and sticky to be trying on clothes, and I am sure the shop staff were appreciative of that decision. Once the trousers were returned (too small) I walked out the other end of the mall and caught the Jubilee Line to Southwark. Too many people.

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With 90 minutes to kill before the train back to St Leonards I decided to drop the pace I had set earlier and take a slow walk towards the station. The streets around the Thames were far busier than last time I was here and there are significantly more tourists. With road-work constricted footpaths it was a bit uncomfortable at times. I ducked into Temple to walk in peace.

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I love the Temple area, I often came here on a Sunday as it is virtually deserted with the office workers at home and there are few bars and cafes inside to attract the casual visitor. There were people about not many, and lots of scaffold which was a shame. Temple is the home of the London legal profession and most (all?) of the offices here are filled with legal chambers, some of them very old. It is a beautiful and under-rated section of old London.

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Back on The Strand I popped into Somerset House, another favourite London spot. Eleanor and I love the Herndandez and Wells cafe here; it made the best egg dishes in London and the coffee was always good. However, its gone and has been replaced by the Watch House, fortunately the coffee was equally as good and the sandwich I had for lunch was very nice. I didn’t notice eggs on the menu though, maybe when we get back?

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Lunch filled enough time that I only needed a gentle stroll to Charing Cross Station to get me there a few minutes before the train departed. I had planned on doing some writing on the train, but the journey was so bouncy I gave up and just enjoyed listening to music and reading a novel. A couple of weeks ago I dug out the Kobo ereader I bought ten years ago for my travels, I haven’t used it for a good five years, possibly more, and was surprised that after a quick charge it still worked as it had before. The genius of simplicity. This book reader does one thing, and it does it very well. For the book nerds I am reading Adam Hall’s 1968 novel ‘The Striker Portfolio’, the third in his very successful Quiller series, and I am enjoying it.

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Eleanor had been in Brighton meeting her son Joe for lunch, so I met her back at the station after I going home for a shower and a brief lie down. We popped into a pub for a glass of wine before grabbing some fish and chips and walking back up the hill to eat in front of the first game of the much delayed Euro 2020 football tournament. I was hoping for Turkey to beat Italy, but it was not too be.

I enjoyed my walk and am very keen to see as much as I can of old London as I can before we go to much newer New Zealand in 7 weeks time.

7 WEEKS!!! Where did the time go?

New Zealand Music Month, 2009 Gig photos

Auckland 2009
New Zealand Music Month.

The second and final post for New Zealand music month.

For a few month across 2008 and 2009 I did some gig photography for an Auckland based website. In the end it just got too much and I could not sustain late nights taking photos as well as working a busy job and a family; albeit only one of the kids was at home by then. Looking at the dates of these photos it looks like I stopped in March and then did a couple more months in July and August. I did get to some great gigs, mainly by New Zealand bands; though I did get to see legendary English band Spiritualized.

DHDFDs,
Kings Arms, January.
I absolutely loved seeing these guys, completely bonkers, and they could play too.

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Set On End,
Somewhere, January.
Metalcore band from West Auckland who were good friends of my son Dom.

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X-Features,
Support for Spiritualized, Powerstation, January.

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Hasselhoff Experiment,
Cassette 9, February.

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Head Like a Hole,
Kings Arms, February.
Wellington’s Head Like a Hole were a must see gig when they first started coming to Auckland in the early 90s. Absolutely insane live.

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Lawrence Arabia,
Early evening gig in a Cafe on K’Rd, March.
I was contacted by the band after the photos went up and some were used in a print article in NZ Musician magazine. The only time any of my gig photos have made it into print.

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The Randoms,
Somewhere on Nelson St, July.

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Silhouette of the guitarist from Frayden,
Somewhere on Nelson St, July.

Shadow Play

Piece War,
Support for Shocking Pinks, Cassette 9, July.

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Shocking Pinks,
Cassette 9, July.

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Drab Doo Riffs
Cassette 9, July
Karl Steven was probably the most engaging live vocalist in NZ at the time, it was great watching him perform, I have a lot of photos.

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Brand New Math,
Support for Handsome Furs, Cassette 9, August.

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 And that was the end of my short-lived, unpaid career as a gig photographer. It was mostly fun, but also hard work. With such terrible public transport in Auckland, a lot of people drove into the city for gigs, which meant they were always on really late, often finishing at 2am, even mid week.  One of the (many) things I love about the UK is most gigs are done by 11pm, getting home early is something I very much appreciate.

New Zealand Music Month, 2008 Gig photos.

Auckland 2008
New Zealand Music Month.

I have been a music fan since my teens and have had an interest in photography for almost as long, so it was inevitable that these two interests would collide. I bought my first digital SLR in late 2007 and though I didn’t go to many gigs in those days I did take my camera to the ones went to.

Bill Direen and the Builders
Masonic Tavern, Devonport, November 2007.

Bill Direen - Builders set

Mint Chicks
Kings Arms, March 2007.

I loved the Mint Chicks!

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I can’t remember which photo I posted on the Flickr website that led to ‘A’ from the ‘website that shall not be named’ getting in contact with me to ask if I would do some gig work for the website, though I am pretty sure it was photos from the above Mint Chicks show. I did a couple of years of photography for him, but in the end it got too much and I had to stop. I couldn’t do two late nights a week and my immensely busy day job. Of course the gig photos were done for free, but I did get a photo pass.

As May is New Zealand music month, the images here are just the New Zealand bands I shot for the website. I only shot a small number of overseas acts, though I did get to see some good ones; Broken Social Scene, The Breeders, Spiritualised and Stiff Little Fingers being highlights.

So, here we go, gigs from 2008.

Shocking Pinks
Supporting The Clean, Kings Arms, January.

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Nick Harte, in the photo, is the Shocking Pinks, with band members roped in for gigs. This photo still gets used by him and is the photo on their Spotify page. I guess it is my most viewed image.

The Clean
Kings Arms, January.

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Surf City
Supporting Broken Social Scene, Kings Arms, February.

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The Bats
The Media Club, Christchurch, March.

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Tentacles Of Destruction
Helen Melville Hall, June.

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Kerretta
Supporting The Breeders, North Shore Centre, August.

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Sora Shima
Kings Arms, August.

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Cut of your hands
K’ Rd venue unknown, October.

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Anabys
Supporting Set on End, October.

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Set On End
Metal bar on Nelson St? Cannot remember the name, October.

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Spelling Mistakes
AK79 reunion shows, venue unknown, November.

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X-Features
AK79 reunion shows, venue unknown, November.

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Die! Die! Die!
Zen Bar, November.

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My favourite gig of that year.

Los Hories
Website 5 Birthday Gig, Cassette No 9, December.

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Princess Diana
Website 5 Birthday Gig, Cassette No 9, December.

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Trees Climbing Trees
The website 5 Birthday bash, Cassette No 9, December.

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Bemsha Swing
Holy Fuck Support, The Studio, December.

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Golden Axe
Holy Fuck Support, The Studio, December.

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The Conjurors
Ruby Suns Support, Kings Arms, December.

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Ruby Suns
Kings Arms, December.

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Cobra Khan
The Bronx support, Kings Arms, December.  

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It was a busy end to the year, but I loved all those gigs.

Dungeness.

Saturday 24 April 2021 – Dungeness.

I find it hard to believe that there are (only) 97 days to go until we leave for Auckland. Some times it seems that departure day is so far away, yet other times it feels like there’s no time left at all. 97 days is a bit of a non-period to note; stuck between the newly important ‘100 days’ and the more useful three months. However, as I start typing, that is what the countdown says, and right now I am thinking ‘Wow, there is not a lot of time left.’ Most days I just wish time would hurry up and it would be July now. Is it normal to wish life away?

In unrelated, but interesting news, I entered a piece of flash fiction (in this case a story in under 250 words) into a competition last week. I have no expectation of getting any response other than the ‘thanks for your entry’ email I have already received, but it felt good to do it. This is the first time I have shared any fiction writing with anyone other than Eleanor and a couple of people who provided feedback on the short story I wrote; and still need to finish editing. When the competition closes at the end of May I will post the flash fiction.

Eleanor left for a week in Walthamstow this morning. After doing a few chores at home, (OK, I didn’t but I intended to; I went to the supermarket and wrote that last blog entry instead of painting the wall inside the wardrobe) I drove to Dungeness. I love the sparseness of Dungeness, and have become mildly obsessed with Prospect Cottage, the late Derek Jarman’s home, and it’s semi-famous garden. I used this book as inspiration for today’s photography; though I don’t claim to have managed anything as lovely as what can be found in those pages.

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This entire section of Kent coast is mostly barren, pebbly and marshy flood lands, a narrow ridge with houses is all that separates the sea from pouring inland and I expect that at some point later in my children’s lifetime the sea will claim this land and there will only be marsh and sea, maybe with the occasional chimney visible at low tide.

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It’s sunny and would be warm if there was not a biting cold wind blowing along the coast. I wrapped up warm, as did the seemingly million other people who decided to clog the roads with their dreadfully slow driving and head to the coast as well. Dungeness was as busy as I’ve ever seen it.

Parking outside Prospect Cottage I intended to spend some time here walking around and taking photos of the garden. Given the number of people this was a somewhat flawed plan, so I took a couple of pictures before leaving the family with the kids running around to do their thing and went for a walk on the more deserted beach.

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The nuclear power station perched ominously on the edge of Dungeness beach frequently comes up in Jarman’s diaries; he occasionally dreamed about it blowing up, but most often he refers to it as a quiet neighbour. One of the few interesting backdrops to a cottage on a pebble desert.

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It is a vast beach, though most of the photographically interesting stuff is around the small working fishing fleet. Much like Hastings, Dungeness’s fishing boats are beach launched; using old tractors, diggers and diesel powered winches to get the boats into and out of the water, there is nothing elegant, modern or renewable about beach-launched fishing.

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I am sure I have said it before in previous Dungeness posts, but I love this place. I love the bleakness and harshness of the environment; not much grows on those sun, wind and salt scorched pebbles. There is little sand; maybe some at low tide, this not a holiday-maker beach. Few people come here to sunbathe and swim; people come here to fish, to bird watch, to walk, to be alone; or like me, to voyeur at the boats, the rocks and the fishing cottages slowly being converted into luxury Air BnBs. Sadly it is becoming increasingly popular. I blame the Instagram generation, which includes me I guess.

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I walked a loop, taking some photos of the beach before going to one of the areas with a concentration of boats, tractors and the associated detritus that comes with working boats, before heading back to the cottage. On the subject of detritus; I was really surprised, and very disappointed at the amount of rubbish on the beach around the fishing boats, there was a lot of rope, wire, fishing line, plastic, all sorts of crap, all over the place. For people who should care about the sea and what lives in it they are rather cavalier about how they treat it.

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The natural world is wonderful, I love how over years, maybe decades; or maybe, just over a few weeks, the beach has created its own wave formation, replicating those of the sea. Like the sea these beach waves will be different, maybe not the next time I visit, but not long after.

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I spent some time around the boats and tractors; there are others taking photos as well so I was not alone, one chap I spoke to had a 1920/30s film camera and I would love to see what he was getting in this harsh light. I had been tempted, even before meeting this guy, to convert all the images from today to black and white, but have decided not to. The book has a good mix of both and it is still my guide to today. This environment would suit monochrome though, there are so many contrasts, visual and otherwise.

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A few photos were taken… Maybe I should buy a film camera?

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I walked back to Prospect Cottage. Mid-beach there are a number of platforms, foundations and blackened piles of wood and iron where old cottages, net or smoke huts once stood. Destroyed by nature, by accident or even deliberately? I have no idea. A part of me wishes everything be torched; leave the power station alone on the beach; a monument to the idea that nuclear was the way to go. Scorch the rest of the earth. The future beckons.

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There are bricks and tiles and twisted, rusted iron rebar lying around; my favourite find was this heavy chain; one end loose and the other connected to something in the stones. I have no idea what such heavy chain would be for? Sometimes it is best not to know, I am sure there are stories from here that would keep the sturdiest of us awake at night. I am not that sturdy. I walk on, I don’t want my mind imagining things more than it does already.

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An hour gone; the wind had not abated and it is getting colder (I cannot believe it is late April), there are fewer cars parked on the roadside so I walk back to Prospect Cottage; hoping that at least the families with small children would have buggered off somewhere warm, and I would have the garden more to myself.

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The wind is annoying. I had the tripod with me, though there was no point in getting it out the car. I rarely use it, I don’t care that much for technical perfection in my photography, though today I want to take close up images of things in the garden, and detail requires some sort of stability; my hands aren’t what they used to be. I am less concerned about windblown foliage, in my mind it adds to the scene, as long as the principal object is still.

The tripod remains in the car and I take slightly blurry photos; again. Though it is not yet the season for colour, and I have chosen to use black and white in some images, the  garden has plenty of colour, though muted variants of green dominate. In this environment the plants protect themselves with comformity, only the strong, or the wisest survives.

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I manage a good fifteen minutes taking photos in the garden, it is small to be fair, but I get frustrated by the wind, by other people (admittedly fewer than before) and by my lack of ability to see what I hoped to see. Though as I edit over the following week I am not unhappy with the images I made. I take few photos, usually only one of any single thing, so a good day out taking photos may only ever be 40 or 50 images; those rare days I take 100 are extraordinary. Today I took 76, about half in the garden, so a fairly prolific day by usual standards.

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It is completely the wrong time of year to be taking photos in a garden, especially one that has been scorched dry by salty winter winds, frost, lack of rain and a Covid enforced lack of gardening in a not yet opened ‘museum’ house. However, it is probably the last time I will get to come here before we go to Auckland. I like that it is still only in early spring re-growth and not in full summer bloom. It’s like it should be this time of year, a small semi-cultivated, managed oasis in what was, not that long ago, a desolate wind-swept pebble landscape; and if Jarman’s dreams of the power station melting down ever come true, then that is what it will return to.

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|———————-|

I am uncertain as to why I became mildly obsessed with Jarman’s Prospect Cottage. I am not a film buff and I have only seen one of his works, the punk film ‘Jubilee’. I have no burning desire to see other films either, and that includes ‘The Garden’ which was largely (fully?) shot in Dungeness.

I read his book Modern Nature at the start of the Covid outbreak last year. Initially, because I am interested in writing about nature and place and it is a classic of that genre, he is a good writer. However, the book also resonated due to the correlation with Jarman’s illness with AIDS and how that pandemic was reported in the 1980s, and the situation we found ourselves in with Covid. The panic, finger pointing and misinformation that surrounded AIDS was replicated here in those initial weeks of Covid, it was as if we had learnt nothing in the intervening years (we hadn’t).

In odd way, as well as finding this lack of progress rather depressing, I found comfort knowing there was a way through this pandemic; that others had been there and done that, and that tying oneself to nature and place played an important, balancing, part in recovery.

I look forward to visiting Prospect Cottage and Dungeness when we return to the UK, maybe the cottage will be open then, maybe not. The future is unknown.

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Walthamstow Forest.

Tuesday 6 April 2021 – Walthamstow.

Life has been getting on top of me in a small way over the past few weeks. It has been busy at work, and, along with organising things for New Zealand, plus day to day living in this semi-lockdown world we are still living in the UK, meant things were piling up in my head. I needed a break. To maximise use of Easter’s four days I took the week after off work, giving me a full 10 day break. By the time I returned to work I was feeling significantly better and I manged to achieve a few of the things that need to be done at home. Going back to work was, for a change, quite easy.

We’ve been spending Easter at Eleanor’s place in Walthamstow. There has been a lot of work done over the weekend with de-cluttering and moving things around to create more storage space. I have a lot more records than when we left for St Leonards 11 months ago, and they aren’t coming to Auckland with us, at least not yet. It was a good start, but there is still a way to go, but at least we now have a better understanding of the amount of storage available to us, and how much stuff we need to get rid of; records and books excluded, of course.

It’s Tuesday and Eleanor is working, so I took the camera for a walk. Primarily to find a new Phlegm piece near the forest, it was good to get back into even a small section of forest for the first time in months.

There are a couple of newish Phlegm pieces just off Beacontree Ave On and near one of the underpasses that takes you from the city to the forest; below the A406, the dreaded North Circular.

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Walthamstow Forest is not spectacular; it is a small section of forest that is connected by other small sections of forest all the way through to Epping Forest. I find it very cool that you can walk, or ride, from Walthamstow all the way to Epping without having to touch the road; except where you have to cross them.  This would give you about a five forest hour walk and the start is only 30 minutes or so from the centre of London (by train and then foot), amazing.  I wasn’t doing anything like that today, just a short walk; though perhaps I will when we move back here before we fly away. I definitely want to spend some time in the forest before we go.

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I didn’t take many photos, conditions for photography weren’t great and it isn’t exactly the most exciting section of the forest either, nor the most interesting time of year. To be truthful I really wasn’t feeling it, I rarely am when my head is full. It was very enjoyable being outside with the camera though, and that in itself was enough to perk spirits.

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I had a quick experiment with Intentional Camera Movement to create a couple of impressionist painter style photos. I have not done this for quite some time, though it was an area of photography I enjoyed playing with in the past. Silver birch trees are particualr favourites of mine for this style of photography.

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I wanted to see if there was anything interesting painted on the walls of the passages that pass under the motorway and the main roads around the ‘Waterworks’ Roundabout. I also needed to be back on the other side of the A406 for the walk home, so looped back this way rather than going back the way I came. It looks like the council have cleaned them up, only one of the underpasses I looked at, or used, was tagged. It was a bit weird walking through a clean underpass. I suspect that won’t last.

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A walk through Covid deserted London

Friday 29 March 2021 – That London.

I went for a walk in the centre of lockdown London today. It was rather surreal, not quite 28 Days Later, as construction work continues, but at times it felt not far from it. There were so few people to be seen and even fewer cars on the roads.

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Big news first though. We have secured a place in managed isolation in New Zealand!

This is a prerequisite to book a flight to NZ, airlines will not allow a booking without a space and it is remarkably difficult to get one as there is a lot of competition from other Kiwis as they return home from all over the world. It’s like trying to get a ticket to a rare concert by your, and thousands of others, favourite band. There are few places, and there is high demand. As soon as vacancies are available there is a website pile-on and the web server almost grinds to a halt. It was a frustrating process and bad words were said, frequently.

I got there eventually and managed to book flights the following day without too much trouble. We fly Emirates, via Dubai and Kuala Lumpur and leave the UK on 29 July, then start our 14 days in a managed isolation hotel somewhere in NZ on 31 July. So, yay.

This was my second visit to London during March, Eleanor and I had spent most of a week there earlier in the month. On that visit I had a doctor and dentist appointment and Eleanor had a doctor visit as well, reasonable reasons for travel outside of our local area. This trip was an overnighter as I had my first Covid vaccination today.

I came up on the train after work on yesterday, my first train journey longer than six minutes duration in over a year. It was weird, but very enjoyable, a mostly empty carriage and everyone was wearing a mask. Train is my favorite mode of travel, and something I will miss when we are in NZ. I arrived at London Bridge just after 7pm, the weather was nice and I chose to walk to Liverpool St to take the overground to Walthamstow rather than take the tube.

After crossing London Bridge I walked down to the north side of the Thames to take a couple of photos of the Shard and the surrounding buildings. There were very few people about, it really did not feel like 7pm on a Thursday. Obviously all the bars and restaurants were closed, but still. It was eerily quiet; and it was only going to get quieter. These are hand held photos, so not the crispest.

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Crossing over Upper (or Lower) Thames I was surprised to see almost no cars, and I didn’t have to wait long to get a photo of an almost deserted street.

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Leadenhall Market was no better. This place would usually be absolutely rammed with city drinkers at 7:30 on a Thursday evening, all year round. It was deserted.

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I meant to get some food at London Bridge but decided to wait until I arrived at Liverpool St, though on arriving I found a train leaving for Walthamstow almost immediately, and with a 30 minute wait until the following I chose to take the one in front of me. They have upgraded the trains on the Chingford line since I last used it; these are much nicer than the old clunkers that travelled the line previosuly. I had a carriage to myself. I grabbed a take-away burger from the Collab in Walthamstow. As with the city, the streets of the ‘Stow were empty of everyone but uber eats and deliveroo riders, and what looked like some drug dealers on a corner.

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My vaccination appointment was at 9:30 am but I arrived early and was vaccinated early too. I was on the platform waiting for a train back to the city before the official appointment time. A highly efficient, friendly and pain free service. Well done the NHS! (and fuck the Tories!)

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I had a few hours until my train back to St Leonards from Victoria Station so I elected to get off the train from Walthamstow at Bethnal Green and walk from there; checking out Shoreditch street art and brutalist architecture on the way.

Sadly, there isn’t a lot of street art left in Shoreditch, gentrication and a lack of funds is more likely the cause than Covid, I am guessing a lot of the folk who drove the explosion of street art a few years back have moved on as well. There’s a lot of tagging, this was prevalent throughout the city which surprised me, councils had to cut budgets somewhere I guess. I didn’t take many photos of the street art, a lot of the old stuff has gone and the much of the newer stuff isn’t as good.

A very old Stik, and one of my favourite pieces ever.

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A new(ish) Dan Kitchener.

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I don’t know who these two are by, but I liked them.

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The ever prolific Alo – of whom I am a fan.

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I walked over to the Barbican Centre to take some photos of the fabulous brutalist buildings. Brutalism, of the building variety, isnot something I will see much of in NZ, particularly in Auckland. I love the Barbican, a place I could wander around for ages. It is huge and there is a lot to see, and it has a pretty good vibe. It is well visited by tourists and I imagine those who live here get a bit sick of people like me,  pointing their camera lenses at everything. Not that there were many tourists around today, anywhere.

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I walked over towards St Paul’s and took some photos of the very empty streets. I was genuinely shocked at how empty the city is as I thought a number of people had gone back to Covid safe offices. I heard tales of packed tube trains so I have no idea where those people go to, I don’t believe they are all construction workers or cafe staff. These photos were taken just before mid-day and there should have been some people heading out to buy lunch.

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Some of the food places were open, nowhere as many as normal, but enough. I grabbed a coffee and sat on the steps opposite a deserted St Pauls to drink it and pondered how London can be so quiet.

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I don’t think I have seen the Millennium Bridge almost empty, ever. I took a photo of the Tate Modern, one of the places in the UK I will miss the most when I am in Auckland.

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I came across a Jimmy C. painting outside Blackfriars Stattion, street art on the South Bank. Wow, things have changed in the last couple of years.

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Continuing on with my brutalist architecture theme I grabbed a photo of the block of flats on the riverside. I used to deliver here when I was a van driver for DHL in the 80s, I can’t imagine what a flat costs here now, it was a little run down here back then.

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I then spent 30 minutes walking around the National Theatre and Festival Hall; two of my favourite London buildings. I may come back here before we leave and take some more photos, though by that time we will have seen some Covid restrictions relaxed, so I suspect it will be busier.

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I could only walk aroud the outside as all the stairwells were closed.

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With my train departure drawing closer I started the walk towards Victoria Station. Walking along the South Bank where I stopped for lunch; it was almost as empty as the streets in the city, before crossing Westminster Bridge to the Houses of Parliament. There was more police than citizens here. I elected to take a slight detour to take a photo of the office, which I sent to my workmates to show them it was still there.

As I was walking back towards Victoria St it started to drizzle a little and then the sky just opened and dumped one of the heaviest downpours of rain I have experienced in the UK, luckily I managed to find shelter almost immediately and avoided getting drenched. it didn’t last more than a few short minutes.

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I arrived at the station mostly dry and with enough time to by a snack and a drink before getting on another mostly empty train back home. The station was very quiet too. Victoria Bus Station is nearby and a lot of the international buses terminate there, discharging their passengers into the train station for onward journeys, but not today. No or limited travels meant no tourists hanging about the station looking lost.

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I took a few photos out of the train window as we moved through the city and the countryside, with the aim of continuing the series of slightly blurry and monochrome photos I was working on before Covid derailed transport. It was a bit of a listless affair. When I was home I was surprised to find I had taken 135 photos over the course of the last 24 hours, Wow, that is a heck of a lot for me.

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I arrived back in St Leonards, and the sea, just as more rain arrived, though it continued eastward with the train and the walk up the hill to the flat was not too wet, just enough.

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I love London, but it was nice to get home.