Gent and Brussels.

Saturday 02 September 2023 – Gent/Ghent.

I’ve struggled with getting the time and energy to write this post almost as much as struggled with choosing and editing some of the 173 photos I took. I (we) had a good time in Ghent/Gent and I’m happy with the photos I took as well, but I’m just knackered and have no mental capacity for anything, again. Work has been mentally draining this past month, and I must admit that I’m not loving this new role either. I’ve also been suffering from ‘tennis elbow’ for the past three months and while it’s mostly OK during the day, the way I sleep means I wake in the middle of the night in pain and struggle to drop off again. To add to the night time joy the UK has just come out of an autumnal heatwave with the hottest ever recorded September days. So, yes, I’ve been too tired and grouchy to think about writing, or much of anything else once the day’s work is over. However, posts will back up if I don’t do something, so here is something.

Eleanor had a ‘significant’ birthday in July and good friends of ours very generously treated the four of us to a couple of nights in Ghent, and it was a very nice time too. Eleanor and I have previously visited and I still had an OK layout of the town in my head and there were a couple of places I wanted to see again; and at least one gin bar to return too; though my main objective was to get some frittes/fries as we didn’t eat any last time, and oh lordy they were good!

We arrived late morning on Thursday and after checking into the very modern and art focused Air B n B, we went off to find those magical frittes, and beer. Only one mind, beer that is not, fries. I ate a lot of those.

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We were lucky with the weather, the forecast hadn’t been inspiring before we left London, but we ended up with one nice day and once not so nice. The not so nice day, Friday, meant I got some ‘cobbles in the wet’ photos, which I was happy about, and it also gave us the perfect excuse to visit one of the many bier bars; this one had 366 beers on its menu. We had three. Burp.

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Ghent is one of those towns that is just built for aimless walking; there are a few named tourist things to see, castles and cathedrals, town halls and museums, but equally there are just loads of lovely streets with great examples of old Flemish homes and of course ‘t Dreupelkot, that wonderful quirky old fashioned gin bar. 

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I even took photos that had people in them.

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We found a list of seven modern buildings to see on the internet, just for something different to look for and managed to find most of them, though most of the finding was by accident. These include the new library (free toilets ), the ‘Modern House’, found in one of the lovely cobbled streets I was photographing, and the Ghent Market Hall.

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Though it was the narrow cobbled streets, wet or dry that I was after, and I found plenty of those.

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We had a late afternoon Eurostar back to London from Brussels on Saturday so with nowhere to store bags in Ghent we took the 30 minute train ride into Brussels Midi and used the left luggage storage there and went for a walk around Brussels. Our first stop was the Mannekin Pis; it has to be really, its Brussels main tourist attraction.

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Last time Eleanor and I were here it was really wet and the square was packed with some event, I can’t remember what, this time it was packed with a beer festival, but at least it wasn’t pouring with rain.

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After a waffle snack (mandatory in Belgium) we took a slow walk up to the European Parliament buildings and then took a train back to the station for the journey home.

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It was a fabulous few days away and we really appreciated the lovely gift from our good friends xx.

Gent, Belgium.

Friday 16 September 2022 – Gent, Belgium.

There won’t be a lot of text in this, nor the following couple of posts, though there are quite a few photos in all three. Gent, Brussels and Amsterdam are photogenic in their different ways.

We loved Gent, I think we possibly could have done with one more day, though we saw most of the things we planned on seeing. The main thing we missed was the ‘Adoration of the Lamb’ altarpiece in St Bavo’s Cathedral. Something for next time; I like to think we will go back one day, it is a place to return to.

Gent is a medieval town surrounded by canals, very similar to the more classically beautiful Bruges. Gent had the edge for me as it has a student population and is a little more ‘grunge’ than Bruges; there is street art and some graffiti and student type bars with decent music. It’s not just a tourist town, though tourism must be one of its primary income sources, it’s a lived in and loved place. For an ancient town it is young and it felt right.

Some highlights.
Gin.

Le Alchemist. We popped in because it was raining and stayed for two very nice, and expensive, glasses of gin and tonic each. They had a nice range of different gins and tonics, the music was great and we were the only customers for a while; it was mid-afternoon. The steps to the bathroom were not for the faint hearted; nor the drunk.

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t’Druepelkott. A number of people advised us to visit this tiny canal side bar in the tourist area, and all those people were right. What a place! The (I assume) cigar smoking owner only serves hots of flavoured gin, poured into a large or small shot with a shaky hand. The glass is filled to brim and you have to sip from top before lifting it from the bar to take back to your seat. 70s and 80s funk sound tracked our couple of drinks and it is up there with the top moments of the trip.

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The food was great as well, vegan food is common, we found a couple of places that were 100% vegan; it’s not overly cheap, but it was very nice and we ate well.

Walking.

Gent is an easy town to walk and cycle, there were definitely fewer cars than most other places. The narrow and cobbled streets twist and turn and cross the canals that edge the town. We walked a lot, an awful lot. It’s the only way to see and feel this place.

I took a lot of photos. Castles, cathedrals, wonky ancient houses and street art from throughout the ages, who could ask for more?

Street art. 

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Castles and cathedrals.

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Streets and canals.

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S.M.A.K. The museum of contemporary art is lovely gallery with a great exhibition featuring some small works by Derek Jarman part made from items found around his Dungeness Beach home. As a recent Jarman convert these were the first pieces of his I had seen up close.

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A 60th birthday treat to Gent, Brussels and Amsterdam.

Wednesday 23 September 2022 – Gent, Brussels and Amsterdam.

Theoretically there’ll be individual blog posts with photos from all three places, though I can’t promise anything as I’m not enjoying the blog that much anymore. I feel it’s time is done, so we will have to see how it goes over the next few weeks. This could be the last one for a while, but then again it might not who knows.

I’m in a small neighbourhood bar a short way off the beaten track in Amsterdam as I type these first words into the laptop I’ve been lugging around for a week and not used until now. I like this bar, it’s small and dark, other than the Heineken the tap beer is all new to me so there is plenty of choice and the music playing at a sociable volume is some obscure (to me anyway) reggae. It’s all quite conducive to scribbling a few notes. In fact we haven’t been into a bad bar in the three cities we’ve visited on this, my 60 birthday trip away and the first time we’ve been to Europe since July 2018 when we last visited Valencia, a situation we have to change this coming year. I love and miss Europe, especially places off the beaten track like this small backstreet bar. Experience says bars in Europe are different to bars in the English speaking world, and different in a good way.

I spent far too much time to work out an affordable and sensible break for my birthday, initially trying to link a stay in a town to a concert by a band I liked. Nothing really made economic or time sense so I stopped trying and chose a simple train based trip to three towns in close proximity (read cheap) to England. I’ve not been to Gent (Ghent) or Brussels and last visited in Amsterdam almost exactly 35 years ago, very close to my 25 birthday. Eleanor’s experience of these places closely mirrors mine; she’s been to Amsterdam but not Gent or Brussels.

It’s now a number of days later and we’re back in London, Eleanor’s house sale and purchase is getting close to being finalised and we had a good weekend down at my flat. Work has been as busy as you would expect after two weeks away and I’m just getting my head back into writing a bit more of this post. Thankfully all the photo editing is done. I still stand by my earlier thought of winding the blog writing down, but aim to at least upload some of the edited photos I took in each city. There isn’t a lot of point in taking photos if they just stay on a hard drive in a dark drawer somewhere. Anyway….

It was a fabulous, awesome, wonderful holiday. It was so nice to be out of the UK for a few days and to spend that time in three great cities. We had nothing planned, other than the train back to London and a birthday meal in a restaurant in Brussels. We could do what we wanted, when we wanted; perfect.

It’s impossible to name a particular highlight and there is no way I can nominate one city over each of the others, I liked them all. So, here are some overall impressions and things I learned.

Cities with lots of cycling and walking and fewer cars are so much more pleasant than cities dominated by cars. In all three places non-car based transport was king.
I like trams.
Lots of young people smoke cigarettes in NW Europe; there was very little vaping going on. I was surprised.
The music in all the bars we went into was way better than most bars in London and Auckland.
The gin in Gent is lovely, as were the bars we drank gin in.
Every bar we visited I felt like I could rock up on my own, order a small beer and read a book in a corner on my own and the other customers would not make me feel like I was weird.
Canals are awesome.
Walking 20,000 + steps a day seven days in a row is tiring; though not walking up steps meant my knee survived the trip.
Neither Gent nor Brussels are dead flat.
Brussels had a car free day on the Sunday and I loved it.
Everyone speaks English; my constant shame is not speaking another language.
Good coffee can easily be found everywhere.
Excellent vegan food is easy to find.
The trains in Europe are cheaper than the UK by a long way.
In Amsterdam vans park on canal bridges.
I still love castles and cathedrals and cobbled street and anything that is a bit old.
I still love mainland Europe a lot and feel I’ve wasted years not coming here as much as I should have.

A favourite photo from each city; not for the quality of the photo, just for the memories.

Gent
Gravensteen Castle and the lovely Le Alchemist, a gin bar over the road from the castle that we nipped into as it was raining.

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Brussels
Car free Sunday

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Amsterdam
Vans parked on photogenic bridges over equally photogenic canals.

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